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                | 2366: Holy 
                  Trinity, New York City | 
             
            
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                 Mystery 
                  Worshipper: Acton Bell. 
                  The church: 
                  Holy Trinity, 
                  New York City. 
                  Denomination: 
                  Roman Catholic, 
                  Archdiocese 
                  of New York. 
                  The building: 
                  A really interesting synthesis of Byzantine and Romanesque elements. 
                  Built in 1910, it is essentially a long riff on the Hagia Sofia 
                  in miniature with the decidedly (then) modern twist of Guastavino 
                  structural tiles. The façade features Romanesque arches 
                  with statues of St John and St Peter. The interior, like the 
                  Hagia Sofia, is dominated by mosaics and the dome. Here, the 
                  dome is laid out in a herringbone pattern of tan, glazed structural 
                  tiles in the style that came to dominate Beaux Arts architecture 
                  in New York City. Guastavino tiles can be found in structures 
                  as diverse as the Oyster Bar in Grand Central Terminal, the 
                  understory of the 59th Street Bridge, and St Paul's Chapel at 
                  Columbia University, but nowhere else are the tiles used as 
                  the primary decorative focus as they are here. It is really 
                  quite extraordinary, both modern and hinting at the past. 
                  The church: 
                  They provide a homeless shelter and sponsor a Narcotics Anonymous 
                  chapter, as well as a Christian meditation center. They also 
                  provide extensive religious education classes for both adults 
                  and children. They sponsor Scouting for both boys and girls. 
                  The neighborhood: 
                  The Upper West Side of Manhattan was once seen as the arty, 
                  slightly bohemian cousin to the old-monied Upper East Side. 
                  But that distinction has sort of fallen away, as the neighborhood 
                  now is the most expensive and desirable in the entire city. 
                  With a proliferation of small shops, restaurants, and access 
                  to nearby Central Park, the area has seen an influx of young 
                  upwardly-mobile families, giving it an almost suburban feel. 
                  The cast: 
                  An elderly priest officiated with the assistance of a younger 
                  priest and lay reader. Their names weren't listed anywhere, 
                  and I didn't get a chance to meet him on the way out. 
                  The date & time: 
                  Easter Sunday, April 8, 2012, 12.30pm. 
                   
What was the name of the service? 
                  High Mass. 
                   
How full was the building? 
                  Pushing 500. The galleries were opened up to accommodate the 
                  overflow, but it was still standing room only below. 
                   
Did anyone welcome you personally? 
                  No. We had to scramble around to find someone to show us how 
                  to get upstairs into the gallery. The nave was packed. 
                   
Was your pew comfortable? 
                  The pews in the galleries are slightly miniaturized, with smaller 
                  seats and straighter backs. I felt as though I were perched 
                  on a limb like a bird. 
                   
How would you describe the pre-service
atmosphere? 
                  Pretty lively, with lots of folks jockeying for seats. Some 
                  ushers would have been helpful. 
                   
What were the exact opening words of the
service? 
                  "In the name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy 
                  Spirit." 
                   
What books did the congregation use during the
service? 
                  Today's Missal and an immense service bulletin that 
                  covered the entire Easter triduum. 
                   
                  What musical instruments 
                  were played? 
                  A string quartet of violins, viola and cello and a fantastic 
                  organ, an opus of the Orgues Létourneau Ltée of Quebec, and 
                  the only one of its kind in New York City. I would have loved 
                  to have heard this organ play some French 20th century works. 
                  The organ case is quite beautiful, and the sound is equally 
                  stunning. There was also an outstanding choir of 10 men and 
                  women. 
                   
                  Did anything distract 
                  you? 
                  The gallery smelled overwhelmingly of Lemon Pledge furniture 
                  polish. I suppose it got a fresh dusting in anticipation of 
                  all the crowds. Also, sitting in the gallery, we had a birds 
                  eye view of the congregation below. And it was fun to pick out 
                  all the hats, although there weren't many in bright colors. 
                  This being New York City, it tended to black, black, and more 
                  black. Sober Easter bonnets seem a bit sad to me.
  
 
  
                   Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, 
                  happy clappy, or what? 
                  Reserved and formal without being stuffy. The mass setting was 
                  an early Haydn Missa Brevis  which was light, 
                  fluffy and elegant, and really well done. The collect, gospel 
                  reading and eucharistic and Lord's Prayers were chanted. The 
                  congregation was asperged and censed, but in place of a sanctus 
                  bell, the organist did a run on a glockenspiel, prompting hastily 
                  stifled laughter from my friend and me. 
                   
                  Exactly how long was the 
                  sermon? 
                  10 minutes. 
                   
                  On a scale of 1-10, how 
                  good was the preacher? 
                  5  The elderly priest, whoever he was, spoke with authority 
                  and was quite an effective speaker, using dramatic pauses to 
                  much success. He also had a slight English accent, which my 
                  friend found charming. However, I'd say the homily was a triumph 
                  of style over substance. 
                   
                  In a nutshell, what was 
                  the sermon about? 
                  There was a bit about the hope that comes at Easter with the 
                  promise of redemption, but even looking at my notes, I no have 
                  real way of reconstructing what he said. 
                   
Which part of the service was like being in
heaven? 
                  Definitely the music! Two sopranos were standouts: one with 
                  a lovely coloratura just perfect for the Haydn, and the other 
                  with a heavier dramatic voice. 
                   
                  And which part was like 
                  being in... er... the other place? 
                  Sitting as we were, perched in the dome, both my friend and 
                  I noticed a couple in the front of the nave getting more than 
                  a little touchy-feely. Who knew Easter was such a turn-on? 
                   
                  What happened when you 
                  hung around after the service looking lost? 
                  Nothing. Nobody approached us. We wandered about a bit to look 
                  at the rest of the church, then headed out for brunch. 
                   
How would you describe the after-service
coffee? 
                  If there was one, I didn't know about it. 
                   
How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)? 
7  Great music, but I felt a bit anonymous. However, to be fair, it was a massive crowd, so how welcoming could they be?
  
Did the service make you feel glad to be a
Christian? 
                  Yes. Great music is, I feel, a gift of God. 
                   
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time? 
                  The quality of singing, especially the Sanctus. | 
             
           
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