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                | 2164: Shrine 
                  Church of St Bernadette, Brooklyn, New York, USA | 
             
            
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                 Mystery 
                  Worshipper: Acton Bell. 
                  The church: 
                  Shrine 
                  Church of St Bernadette, Brooklyn, New York, USA. 
                  Denomination: 
                  Roman Catholic, 
                  Diocese 
                  of Brooklyn. 
                  The building: 
                  Built in 1937, this brick cruciform church has a few Art Moderne 
                  touches, probably the most striking of which is the use of elliptical 
                  arches on the exterior front. Viewed from the side, the church 
                  has a ship-like appearance, as the long horizontal roof is broken 
                  only by a small hip and a wee spire that looks more like a ship's 
                  mast or flagpole. The arch motif continues into the interior 
                  with a series of seven ovoid arches that frame the nave. Behind 
                  the altar is a large stone reredos that suggests the grotto 
                  at Lourdes, France. Outside on the grounds is another representation 
                  of the Lourdes grotto, about two-thirds actual size, with a 
                  statue of St Bernadette that is dwarfed by hydrangea shrubs. 
                  The church: 
                  Their website summarizes the Blessed Virgin's appearances at 
                  Lourdes in the mid 19th century to the peasant girl Bernadette 
                  and how, when Bernadette asked "the beautiful lady dressed 
                  in blue and white" who she was, she replied (in impeccable 
                  peasant French dialect): "I am the Immaculate Conception." 
                  The church's website also states that the parish is "a 
                  faith-filled community under the guidance of our Blessed Mother" 
                  whose mission is to "pass on our Catholic heritage to future 
                  generations by following Christ's example." They sponsor 
                  an Altar Rosary Society and a chapter of the Holy Name Society. 
                  St Bernadette's school is staffed by the Sisters of St Lucy 
                  Filippini. There are four masses each Sunday, three on Saturday, 
                  and two masses Monday through Friday. 
                  The neighborhood: 
                  St Bernadette's is located in the Bensonhurst section of Brooklyn. 
                  Originally developed as a wealthy WASP enclave, Bensonhurst 
                  was considered by The New York Times in 1906 to be 
                  the "handsomest suburb in Greater New York." By the Depression, 
                  however, the area had largely become a haven for Italian immigrants, 
                  and has often been referred to as Brooklyn's "Little Italy." 
                  It is said to have had, by the 1970s, the world's largest population 
                  of Italians outside of Italy. Many of the area's better known 
                  residents made names for themselves in the world of organized 
                  crime: Carmine "the Snake" Perisco, Joseph "the Olive Oil King" 
                  Profaci, "Crazy" Joe Gallo, Alphonse "Little Allie Boy" Profaci, 
                  and many other members of the Gambino and Colombo crime families 
                  have called the neighborhood home. And looking around today 
                  you can see that there is an air of "keeping up with the Sopranos," 
                  as many relatively modest homes sport large fountains, elaborate 
                  iron work, marble columns, and statuary, much of it religious 
                  in nature. Bensonhurst is also famous for its elaborate Christmas 
                  lights, most of which are professionally hung by design firms 
                  and can cost as much as $20,000. The major avenues of Bensonhurst 
                  are lined with Italian restaurants, bakeries and delis as well 
                  as bargain shops, and weekends bring heavy traffic from all 
                  over. 
                  The cast: 
                  The Revd Joseph A. Gancila, parochial vicar, presided. He was 
                  assisted by an unnamed priest and two lay readers, also unnamed. 
                  The date & time: 
                  Palm Sunday, April 17, 2011, 11.00am. 
                   
What was the name of the service? 
                  Passion Sunday with the Liturgy of the Palms. 
                   
How full was the building? 
                  Simply heaving with humanity, and it's not exactly a small church! 
                  We arrived 10 minutes early and it was a struggle to squeeze 
                  into a pew, We were packed in the pew like the subway at rush 
                  hour. Lucky to get seats, though, as it was standing room only 
                  shortly after we arrived. I counted 60 or so in the side aisles, 
                  back of the church and vestibule. I would estimate the total 
                  attendance was above 400, a feat made even more impressive given 
                  this was the third mass of the day. 
                   
Did anyone welcome you personally? 
                  A warm and hearty hello it wasn’t. There was a lady distributing 
                  giant handfuls of palm fronds out of a plastic bucket of water 
                  to the eager hoards gathered at the entrance to the nave. She 
                  handed my friend a bundle. Then, when she saw me, she stopped 
                  and looked incredulously at me and said, "Really?" That, in 
                  Brooklynese, is an understatement for "You've gotta be 
                  kidding!" I answered back with my own "Really" and she 
                  handed some over, punctuated with an eye roll. Later, I realized 
                  that the custom was to give out one helping of palms per family, 
                  and she must have thought that my friend and I were being a 
                  very greedy couple. 
                   
Was your pew comfortable? 
                  It would have been more comfortable with perhaps two fewer people 
                  in it, but, as far as wooden pews with a kneeler go, it was 
                  fine. 
                   
How would you describe the pre-service
atmosphere? 
                  Bustling, loud and crowded. It was well nigh impossible to get 
                  into a pious mood beforehand, although a few valiant souls tried. 
                  As with any crowd trying to squeeze into a space all at once, 
                  it had crying babies, people talking, folks jostling for position, 
                  and a number of people complaining about the logjam at the center 
                  aisle where the palms were being distributed. (I'm not sure, 
                  but I'm willing to bet that the crowds welcoming Jesus into 
                  Jerusalem didn't fight over who would get to wave the palm branches.) 
                  There were a few people kneeling at prayer, and I saw one lady 
                  interrupted mid Hail Mary, having to stop and stand to let more 
                  people into the pew. With a crowd this big, a few ushers would 
                  have been useful. Communion was a total free-for-all. 
                   
What were the exact opening words of the
service? 
                  "In the name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the 
                  Holy Spirit." 
                   
What books did the congregation use during the
service? 
                  A small-print paperback Today's Missal.  
                   
What musical instruments were played? 
                  A small pipe organ. There was also a choir and a soprano soloist 
                  who was decidedly past her Use By date. 
                   
Did anything distract you? 
                  With this many people gathered together, how could one not be 
                  distracted? There was so much going on. Those gabbing during 
                  the service and those loudly shushing the talkers, children 
                  bawling, things falling over, the folks in the aisles shuffling, 
                  impatient for the mass to be over. In a total moment of zone-out, 
                  I found myself wondering about the stenciling of bright green 
                  vines and yellow birds on the elliptical arches that frame the 
                  sanctuary and the navy blue Gustavino tiles. It reminded me 
                  of Clarice Cliff or some other Deco pottery, and was a touch 
                  of whimsy in a place that's not really whimsical. 
                   
                  Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, 
                  happy clappy, or what? 
                  Middle-of-the-road novus ordo, which I find neither 
                  happy clappy or stiff upper anything. The whole palm liturgy 
                  was really confusing for me. The palms had apparently been blessed 
                  at an earlier service, as the priest merely read the first lesson 
                  at the door, then walked forward asperging left and right while 
                  we sang the processional hymn  or rather, some of us did, 
                  and I think it was a hymn (I'll have more to say about the music 
                  in a moment). At the mass itself, there was no incense and no 
                  chanting, nothing really solemn at all. Not even the bell at 
                  communion, which I found a little sad. It was all very unsophisticated, 
                  bland, a little sterile, and nothing whatsoever to plug it into 
                  the past. Some of the music was on the happy clappy side, at 
                  least I think it was. Sometimes it was difficult to tell exactly 
                  what was being played. There was what I'm guessing to be a five-year-old 
                  boy sitting several rows ahead of me just bored out of his gourd 
                  and letting everyone around him know it, but he provided me 
                  with a memorable impression that I'll save for the end. 
                   
                  Exactly how long was the 
                  sermon? 
12 minutes.
  
                  On a scale of 1-10, how 
                  good was the preacher? 
                  5  Definitely a native son, Father Gancila spoke slowly 
                  and with obvious passion with a very strong Brooklyn accent. 
                   
                  In a nutshell, what was 
                  the sermon about? 
                  He argued that in the gospel of the day, the passion of St Matthew, 
                  we are told to be obedient to authority of all kinds. Jesus 
                  is obedient to his Father, and as such we should be so in our 
                  lives: first to our "fathers", who take many shapes, and to 
                  the fathers of the Church. This isn't easy, and we sometimes 
                  stray. This is why reconciliation is so foundational to our 
                  spiritual well-being, as it allows us to be more obedient. 
                   
Which part of the service was like being in
heaven? 
                  Hardly the most luminal mass I've ever heard. I was, however, 
                  struck by the nature of this mass as a corporate experience. 
                  Here was a whole rugby scrum of people gathered together as 
                  the embodiment of the liturgical idea of community. That community 
                  isn't necessarily sedate, polite and quiet, but rather is (at 
                  least in this instance) of an overwhelming active and vocal 
                  nature. That was a nice reminder. Mass can be messy, and that's 
                  not necessarily bad. This jibed perfectly with the reading of 
                  the Passion. 
                   
And which part was like being in... er... the other place? 
                  Catholics don't sing, do they? And who can blame them when what 
                  is on offer is truly, truly ear-splittingly bad. Something was 
                  sung that sounded like the K-mart jingle circa 1980. Another 
                  number, which I thought was going to be a doo-wop song, turned 
                  out to be a 1970s tuneless abomination. The choir and organist 
                  only made matters worse. The organist must have been a beginner, 
                  as it wasn't a case of a few misplaced notes, but rather whole 
                  misplaced passages! During the offertory, one half of the choir 
                  seemed to begin another hymn in a different key and tempo, while 
                  the other half continued on with what they had been singing. 
                  And I don't think it was meant to be contrapuntal. The old soprano 
                  punctuated everything with random impromptu solos. Is it any 
                  wonder that the congregation took the choir coming on as their 
                  cue to talk to one another? Everyone that I could see, save 
                  for one, completely disengaged when the singing started. 
                   
What happened when you hung around after the service looking lost? 
                  In essence the next mass started before the one I was attending 
                  had ended, so there was not a chance of hanging around looking 
                  lost. After communion slightly more than a third of the congregation 
                  just left, not waiting for the mass to finish. Those waiting 
                  in the back for the next service to begin started filling in 
                  the vacant seats, and they weren’t really quiet about it.  
                   
How would you describe the after-service
coffee? 
                  There wasn't any. 
                   
How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)? 
                  2  Perhaps if stricken deaf. 
                   
Did the service make you feel glad to be a
Christian? 
                  Yes. This was perhaps the perfect place to hear the Passion 
                  read, since so much is about "the crowd," the nature of bodies 
                  and community. 
                   
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time? 
                  The only time the bored five-year-old was still was when the 
                  choir was singing. I was surprised at how attentively he listened, 
                  frowning and making faces throughout, but really listening. 
                  During one particularly bad moment where the choir managed to 
                  sing off-key in tandem with a string of wrong notes, he reacted 
                  by screwing his face into the worst mug, and it was all I could 
                  do not to burst out laughing. From the mouths of babes, so to 
                  speak. | 
             
           
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