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| 1532: St Margaret's,
Hawes, North Yorkshire, England |
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Mystery Worshipper:
The Foolish Pilgrim.
The church:
St Margaret's, Hawes, North Yorkshire, England.
Denomination:
Church of England, Diocese
of Ripon and Leeds.
The building:
A Victorian church built in the 1850s to a traditional design,
replacing a chapel of ease. The altar in the sanctuary has a
riddel-post surround. The chancel contains seating for choir
and clergy and includes the pipe organ console. The nave has
pews in the centre and south aisles, and a partitioned-off section
in the north aisle currently undergoing refurbishment which
possibly was a Lady chapel. In the west end can be found a tower
with a bell and, audibly, the heating system. There is also
a new and very attractive stained glass window commemorating
both the millennium and the 300th anniversary of the granting
of the town's market charter. The original parish bier is on
display at the back of the church.
The church:
The benefice has two parishes: St Margaret's in Hawes and St
Mary and St John's in the nearby village of Hardraw.
The neighbourhood:
The market town of Hawes seems to be the largest settlement
entirely inside the Dales National Park. The Pennine Way, a
walking trail regarded as the toughest, most demanding, and
most challenging in Britain, passes through the town. There
are many other local paths and tracks into the park. The town
is in Upper Wensleydale, where the high bare moorland contrasts
with the brilliant green of the lower slopes and there are sheep
everywhere. Population at the last census was 1,323; tourism
must increase that greatly during the holiday season, judging
by the number of hotels, guest houses and bed-and-breakfast
establishments in the area. Local indoor attractions include
the Wensleydale Creamery, where Wensleydale cheese is made;
Outhwaite's Rope Works; and the restored Gayle Mill, an 18th
century water-powered cotton spinning mill.
The cast:
The Revd William Michael Simms, incumbent vicar, was the celebrant
and preacher. Members of congregation gave the readings and
led the intercessions.
The date & time:
Sunday, 13 April 2008, 10.30am.
What was the name of the service?
Parish Eucharist.
How full was the building?
About one-third full.
Did anyone welcome you personally?
A greeter said, "How nice of you to join us!" as I
received the books.
Was your pew comfortable?
Plain wooden pews with carpet lining. Not particularly comfortable
but at least they were adequately spaced. Something about the
pews took me completely by surprise – read on!
How would you describe the pre-service
atmosphere?
Quiet and reverent; whispered conversations. The organist played
some pre-service music.
What were the exact opening words of the
service?
"Please be seated. Good morning."
What books did the congregation use during the
service?
The New English Hymnal and a service booklet containing
the text for Common Worship, Order One (the cover was
specific to St Margaret's).
What musical instruments were played?
Pipe organ.
Did anything distract you?
The roar of the heating system – perhaps the burner – though
if it had not been running it would have been very cold in church.
The child behind me who inadvertently hit the back of my pew
a couple of times – the rest of the time she behaved perfectly.
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or
what?
Formal but relaxed. The celebrant altered the sequence of the
opening elements of the service, and changed a couple of hymns
from those listed on the hymn-board (at least one at virtually
the last minute, judging by the whispered messages between organist
and choir). In fairness, the alternative hymns were more in
keeping with the rest of the service.
Exactly how long was the sermon?
8 minutes.
On a scale of 1-10, how good was the preacher?
7 – The incumbent vicar's delivery was relaxed and easy,
and if he used notes I couldn't see them.
In a nutshell, what was
the sermon about?
He spoke on the readings for the day, 1 Corinthians 15:1-11
(Paul on our Lord's death and resurrection) and John 11:17–27
(Martha's discussion with Jesus regarding Lazarus' death and
Jesus' statement about resurrection). There had been two funerals
in the parish that week, one of which was for a gentleman who
had served as warden and verger for over three decades. The
lives of both people had been marked by humility and service,
not hubris, not pride or arrogance. The warden had initially
declined to serve, thinking himself not good enough. The vicar
concluded with a reference to Psalm 115: "Not to us, Lord,
not to us, but to your name give glory." It seemed a very
fitting epitaph.
Which part of the service
was like being in heaven?
The sung sursum corda and preface (the introduction
to the eucharistic prayer) – I had not heard it for many years
and it was very well done. Also, I was amazed to discover a
mouse – the trademark of the legendary North Yorkshire
furniture maker Robert "Mouseman" Thompson –
carved on the end of my pew! I had no idea that Thompson had
worked in the church.
And which part was like
being in... er... the other place?
The roaring of the heating system. Had it been continuous it
might have been easier to bear – but the thermostat control
switched it on and off throughout the service. Fortunately the
flames did not burst into life at an inappropriate moment in
the service.
What happened when you hung around after the service looking lost?
Several people gave friendly nods, and eventually a lady came
up and spoke to me at some length. The vicar thanked me for
coming as I left.
How would you describe the after-service
coffee?
Fair trade instant coffee served in china cups with saucers
from a table at the back of the church. Reasonable strength.
No biscuits, though.
How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)?
9 – I would be very pleased to make a church such as this
my regular church.
Did the service make you feel glad to be a
Christian?
Very much so.
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time?
The singing at the start of the eucharistic prayer. |
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| The Mystery Pilgrim |
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| One of our most seasoned reporters makes the Camino pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Read here. |
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