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The church: Rochester Cathedral, Rochester, Kent, England.
Denomination: Church of England.
The building: An eclectic jumble of historic masonry. Norman, Romanesque, Early English, Decorated... you name it, they've got it. Superb Norman nave and west door, silly Victorian replacement spire.
The neighbourhood: Situated in the centre of the historic city of Rochester – some Roman city remains are still visible. Rochester is the second oldest see in England, founded in 604 (Canterbury was founded in 597).
The cast: The prayers and the Old Testament lesson were taken by Canon Simmonds. The remainder by either the precentor or succentor whose name, alas, remains as mysterious as that of the mystery worshipper.
Choral Evensong.
How full was the building?
The quire proper was about 75 per cent full. However the quire also has its own transepts, and there were some people sitting there also. Likewise there were quite a few visitors in the nave just listening.
Did anyone welcome you personally?
A smiling lady welcomed us and asked if we would like a copy of the words of the anthem ("Rejoice in the Lamb," by Benjamin Britten).
Was your pew comfortable?
We sat in the medieval monk's sedilia, which appear to be designed more to keep you awake than offer comfort!
How would you describe the pre-service atmosphere?
Fairly quiet, with some chatting in low voices.
What were the exact opening words of the service?
The service started with the unaccompanied choir singing "Let my complaint..." by John Blow, from a remote part of the cathedral, before processing in. The precentor then welcomed everyone and explained where to find the order of service.
What books did the congregation use during the service?
Book of Common Prayer (1662), New English Hymnal, and an explanatory sheet about the Office of Evensong.
What musical instruments were played?
Organ.
Did anything distract you?
No. This is a professional choir with regular broadcasts, recordings and foreign tours to their credit, and the clergy were quietly competent in leading the devotions.
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or what?
Formal BCP evensong with a leading choir singing impeccably.
Exactly how long was the sermon?
No sermon.
Which part of the service was like being in heaven?
The anthem, a major piece of work with words taken from Christopher Smart's "Jubilate Agno". Christopher Smart (a friend of Dr Johnson in the 18th century) was a troubled genius, confined to a lunatic asylum for taking Paul's exhortation to "pray without ceasing" literally. In this piece he expresses the joy of all created things worshipping God in their own ways, especially his cat Jeoffrey and the mice that infest his cell. His work is very moving, the words reflecting a deep faith, though expressed through the strange obsessions and repetitions of mental instability. I was nearly moved to tears several times. The provision of the words was a thoughtful touch.
And which part was like being in... er... the other place?
None really, though the "mighty thund'rous organ" did give a couple of convincing foretastes of God's wrath...
What happened when you hung around after the service looking lost?
The service finished with an organ voluntary ("Finale in B flat" by Cesar Franck) as the choir and clergy processed out. About half the congregation remained to listen to this. It was a remarkable – indeed breathtaking – bravura performance. At the end, the entire congregation burst into spontaneous applause, something I have never seen happen in the august confines of an English cathedral service. By this time, any greeting party had long since departed.
How would you describe the after-service coffee?
None that I was aware of.
How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)?
I'm tempted to give it an 11, but alas must stick with my principle of saying that cathedrals are for special events, and a more local congregation is where my regular commitments should be directed.
Did the service make you feel glad to be a Christian?
Very much so.
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time?
I doubt if I will ever forget this service. Prayer Book services can become a sort of olde-worlde nostalgia trip (just as modern liturgies can become banal). This by contrast was very much alive.
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