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The church: Peterborough Cathedral, Peterborough, England.
Denomination: Church of England.
The building: The present building was begun in 1118 and consecrated in 1238 and is a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture. Its most famous feature is probably the West Front, which is a Gothic version of an Italian facade. The porch (added to stop the front from leaning out) was built in the 14th century. Inside, much was restored or replaced dring the 19th century by the architect John L. Pearson, who was responsible for many cathedral restorations. Pearson designed the choir stalls, marble floor and high altar; the latter is a spectacular bit of Victorian kitsch. After a fire in 2001, restoration has once again been ongoing, and some fitments have been removed for cleaning. On the day of my visit the area behind the high altar was closed off.
The church: In the 21st century the cathedral remains a vibrant and developing community, with outreach and education programmes, performances and civic events.
The neighbourhood: The cathedral lies off the main square, with pedestrianised shopping streets all around. The city centre is bustling, but the cathedral close is very quiet and tranquil. Peterborough Market is well worth a visit.
The cast: The preacher was the Canon Pastor, although there was no clue as to his name or the name or title of the celebrant.
Cathedral Eucharist, Feast of Christ the King.
How full was the building?
There were not many of us – perhaps 80 in a huge building. The parish church is 100 yards away, and they were holding a service at about the same time.
Did anyone welcome you personally?
A steward at the back directed us toward another steward handing out books. There was no hello.
Was your pew comfortable?
Wooden chairs locked together, and perfectly comfortable for a service where you are moving about. Perhaps less comfortable for a concert.
How would you describe the pre-service atmosphere?
Very quiet – there were children present who went off to Sunday School during the first hymn. The enormous building invites a quiet atmosphere – it's not the place to make a lot of noise.
What were the exact opening words of the service?
"Good Morning, and welcome to Peterborough Cathedral, and a special welcome to visitors and those who are here for the first time."
What books did the congregation use during the service?
New English Hymnal (no melody line, but the hymns were standard). Home-produced order of service (from Common Worship) and a pew sheet with readings and notices. A fire safety notice was prominent – not surprising considering the recent fire.
What musical instruments were played?
Organ. The cathedral choir sang Mozart's Coronation Mass very competently.
Did anything distract you?
As it was the feast of Christ the King, incense was used – I assume it is not brought out every Sunday – and the way in which the thurible was swung was pretty eye-opening. The celebrant and thurifer must have been trained by baton-twirling majorettes, as they were of the school that likes to rotate the thurible through 360 degrees!
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or what?
It was a formal service, as you would expect in a cathedral, but people were keen to share the Peace. One light touch – the customary communion hymn was omitted because, in the words of the celebrant, "even the New English Hymnal should give way to Mozart."
Exactly how long was the sermon?
17 minutes.
On a scale of 1-10, how good was the preacher?
8 – It was well-delivered; the Canon Pastor has a voice that is easy to listen to. He expounded his arguments very clearly, even though he admitted halfway through that he hadn't really answered the question.
In a nutshell, what was the sermon about?
It was about reconciling the notion of Christ as ruler of the world with evil in the world, when God is all-powerful. He made a telling point about the current differences in the Church of England over sexuality and women in the episcopacy, and what a crucified Jesus would have made of it all – a God who was prepared to suffer death upon the cross would not have cared much for our little rows.
Which part of the service was like being in heaven?
The Gloria was sung beautifully, especially given the choir's relatively small size. It sounded as if some of the boys whose voices had broken were singing some of the under parts.
And which part was like being in... er... the other place?
It was a good service, and nothing distracted me except the incense. I believe cathedrals usually rehearse their services thoroughly, thus mistakes are likely to be fewer.
What happened when you hung around after the service looking lost?
We went out to coffee and hung about but no one talked to us. The clergy were nowhere to be seen.
How would you describe the after-service coffee?
Perfectly acceptable coffee served in a plastic cup.
How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)?
6 – The service was done well from a technical point of view, and the sermon was good, but the atmostphere felt rather cliquey. Most of the congregation were elderly, and the younger people were either in the choir or serving. It was a shame that the children were not at all involved. It would have been interesting to hear what they had been doing whilst they had been out at Sunday School.
Did the service make you feel glad to be a Christian?
It certainly made me glad to be an Anglican. Cathedral worship isn't for everyone, but you feel that you are part of a tradition that stretches back before the Reformation.
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time?
The choir and the clouds of incense.
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